Exfoliating acids are formulated to your skin to fix texture, uneven tone, hyperpigmentation, blackheads, and treat acne flare ups.
Sounds promising, doesn’t it?
But what are exfoliating acids and what do they do?
Some exfoliating acids work by helping remove dead skin cell build up and dissolving the “glue” or bonds between your skin cells and some of them actually have the ability to go into the pore cleaning out extra oil and sebum.
In doing so, this helps remove the top layer of dead skin revealing a brighter and healthier layer.
(AHA’s) – Alpha Hydroxy Acids: this kind of acid is water-soluble and work by removing the top layer of skin and increase your skins cell turnover rate. AHA’s can help fine lines, texture, and hyperpigmentation.
They are recommended for dry and combination skin.
(AHA) – Glycolic Acid: is derived from the sugar cane plant. It has one of the smallest molecules of the AHA’s, making it the most popular. Because the molecules are smaller, it penetrates the skin easier and treats the signs of aging, hyperpigmentation, and skin texture. A con with glycolic acid is it is a strong acid and isn’t recommended for sensitive or acne prone skin types.
(AHA) – Lactic Acid: aids in helping your skin produce its own moisturizing factors. Originally said to have been derived from sour milk (this isn’t the case anymore). Lactic acid has a larger molecular structure than glycolic acid making it more gentle on the skin. It helps to firm, brighten, soothe and is less irritating compared to other acids. This is a great option of sensitive and dry skin types.
(AHA) – Mandelic Acid: is derived from bitter almonds (different from sweet almonds) and is the best option for sensitive skin because it has the largest molecular size than all of the AHA’s. Mandelic acid brightens skin, aids in the cell turnover and renewal process, and targets clogged pores! This means it is safe for oily and acne prone skin types.
(AHA) – Tartaric Acid: this acid isn’t nearly as popular or as well known, but don’t be fooled! This acid has many benefits such as being a strong antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, protection from pollutants, collagen stimulating, and anti-aging. Usually, tartaric acid is used in combination with other acids to help prevent irritation and sensitivity. This would be a great option or aging, mature, and sensitive skin.
(AHA) – Malic Acid: is derived from apples and is another gentle acid like tartaric acid that is used in combination with other acids to treat a variety of skin care concerns. Malic acid is a larger molecule acid and is also great for sensitive, aging, and dry skin types. This acid is considered a humectant and aids in drawing moisture into the skin. Lastly, malic acid treats hyperpigmentation and reduces melanin production.
(AHA) – Citric Acid: I’m not talking about straight lemon from your kitchen, when I say citric acid, I mean the stabilized and formulated version that is safe for our skin. Citric acid is normally formulated with other acids and is commonly used to balance the PH in products. It has been shown to treat hyperpigmentation, reduces melanin production, anti-aging, clogged pores, wrinkles, and dark spots! This is an antioxidant and a humectant.
(BHAs) Beta-Hydroxy Acids: these acids are oil-soluble and have the ability to go into the skin, cleaning excess oil and sebum in the pores. BHA’s are a great option for oily and acne prone skin types because they effectively reduce oil production and open comedones (blackheads).
(BHA) – Salicylic Acid: One of the most popular and commonly used bha’s, with good reason too! It is an oil-soluble exfoliating acid meaning it goes inside the pore whereas water soluble exfoliates the surface. This makes salicylic acid very appealing to oily and acne prone skin types. It has the ability to treat mild acne, whiteheads, and blackheads. It has anti-inflammatory properties making it ideal for pimples and unclogging the pores.
(PHAs) – Poly-Hydroxy Acid: one of the gentlest exfoliating acids and is safe for all the skin types to use. PHAs can provide similar results to AHAs but do cause nearly as much irritation because of their larger molecular size. This is a great option for sensitive skin types who cannot tolerate other exfoliants such as BHAs and AHAs.
(PHA) – Gluconolactone: is an antioxidant found to occur naturally in cells. It evens skin tone, texture, and acts as a humectant to draw moisture into the skin. Even though PHA’s are not as effective as BHAs or AHAs they are normally used in conjunction with to boost other acids capabilities. However, because they are not as strong, that makes them sensitive skin friendly!
(PHA) – Lactobionic Acid: is a PHA that is derived from milk. It also has a large molecular structure and works as a humectant to hydrate and plump the skin. Similar to gluconolactone, lactobioinic has antioxidant properties to protect the skin from free radicals and environmental pollutants. This is another great option for sensitive skin.
As you can see there are plenty of options for exfoliating acids. The bottom line is treating what your skin may be and knowing what skin type you may have.
I personally have seen a tremendous difference in my skin since I have started using chemical exfoliators. I have oily to sensitive skin, and I have noticed that my complexion has cleared a lot.
My skin texture has improved, if I have dark spots they fade quickly, and my skin appears to have a glow from within look!
I like how gentle using a chemical exfoliant is to my skin versus a physical exfoliator (even though physical exfoliants are not bad for your skin), I do find I prefer a chemical one.
That being said, chemical exfoliators can do harm to your skin. Do not use high percentage exfoliating acids such as The Ordinary Facial Peel 30% BHA as it has been advertised. So many people have used this product wrong on tik-tok and have given themselves chemical burns.
Yes, you can get a chemical burn if you use a chemical exfoliant wrong.
Do you research or if you’re really unsure or check in with your dermatologist.
Click here to see my product recommendations for chemical exfoliators